First Hand

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b. Mi'kmaq community

Wearable art is a strong First Nation tradition.* For example, the Seminole Indians of the Florida Everglades originated a special technique of piecing complicated linear patterns to embellish their clothing. Linear embellishment appears in Mi'kmaq garments also. Old Nova Scotian Quilts by Scott Robson and Sharon MacDonald shows a 1905 picture of Catherine Maloney of Shubenacadie wearing a Mi'kmaq skirt of ribbon appliqué and a dark-coloured peaked hat covered with light curvilinear motifs. A second picture shows the detail of ribbon appliqué with beads on a Mi'kmaq skirt made by Mary Morris Thomas, about 1845.

Prince Edward Island's Mi'kmaq Cultural Center in Lennox Island has pictures from the early 20th century showing similar garments. One shows Sarah Mitchell of Lennox Island (Kikjisipayik in Mi'kmaq) wearing a similar dark peaked hat with light appliquéd curvilinear motif. John T. Sark, the last hereditary chief, wore a dark jacket with light appliquéd embellishment. (In the early 1900s photograph, below, he is holding the watch given him by Queen Victoria).

Although the garments in the photographs do not appear to be quilted, the use of appliqué on wearable art makes their link to quilting, since appliqué has long been used on quilts. During the 1970s, the Mountain Artisans, a co-operative in West Virginia, were pioneers in creating patchwork and appliqué garments that were marketed in upscale shops in New York City. For at least a decade to 1999, the Fairfield Processing Corporation, which produces quilt batting, sponsored an annual fashion collection, and their show was a highlight of many North American quilting events. Most quilt shows include a garment or wearable art category for exhibition or competition.

Christine Bernard of Lennox Island is a contemporary creator of wearable art. Her garments are worn by the Lone Wolf Singers who sing, drum, and dance throughout the Maritimes and PEI at pow-wows. Christine explained that the materials used for the garments have changed in recent years. Ribbons now replace beading, and dresses originally created in soft deerskin are now made of polyester knits and cottons, fabrics that are much cooler to dance in on hot days. Nevertheless, the form and style of the dresses remain the same.

Christine Bernard's granddaughter, Paige Bernard wears a Shawl Dress when she dances in Shawl Dance competitions. Her navy and yellow shawl dress is embellished with appliquéd navy and yellow ribbons that fan out in beautiful patterns with her movements.

Paige was also chosen to be a Jingle Dancer. Few are capable of performing the difficult Jingle Dance, which is a powerful prayer dance used especially to pray for the healing of the sick. The Jingles of the dance are circular pieces of silver, curved into a cone shape. They are strung on ribbons and sewn to the ribbon appliqué on the dress. The Jingles make the dress both very heavy and very costly. Christine thinks that there will be another Jingle Dancer in the family. A second granddaughter, Alyssa, at age one shows a strong preference for her Jingle Dress.

A traditional white dress, fringed and embellished with beads and metallic ribbon, is used for a dance in which the women dance outside the circle and pray for the young and all inside the circle.**

The black cotton ribbon shirt of Christine's husband is embellished with the four traditional colours of red, yellow, white, and black (each of which has its own meaning).

Christine emphasized that each garment is unique and the colour choices and designs reflect the individual's personality. In addition to the garments, she creates jewellery and head-dresses, some of which she sells at pow-wows. She hopes to pass her knowledge on to others in Lennox Island. In preparation for the celebration of St. Ann's Day (the day celebrating the patron Saint of the Lennox Island Mi'kmaq), other members of the community prepared their own traditional dresses, preserving this traditional form of wearable art.

* Sharon O'Brien of the Mi'kmaq Family Resource Centre inquired about quilting in the Mi'kmaq community, approaching Lennox Island, the Native Council, and the Family Resource Centre, but she did not find anyone who knew of Mi'kmaq quilters. Christine Bernard's grandmother, Dorothy, did make quilts for her family.

** Prayer is an important part of Mi'kmaq dancing. Dances are also a way to pay homage to someone or to a family. When an Honour Song is requested for a family or the departed in a family, people show respect by gathering in the circle for the dance. At the end of the dance, the family stands in a row and shakes hands with the other dancers.